The regions of Varangerfjord and the Pasvik Valley need no introduction. Both are well known birding areas with many visiting birders, especially during late May and June. These are the prime times to visit these areas, and the times of the year when I usually head north beyond the Arctic Circle. But what are these areas like in mid August? Little did I know, but I have just found out.

The trip started as usual with a flight to Kirkenes and a drive along Munkfjord on the way to Varangerbotn. The first Red and Black-throated Divers were soon recorded, but only single birds. The fjords were quiet with only small flocks of Common Goldeneye and Goosander. Gull numbers too were low with Herring being the most common. As for waders only Eurasian Oystercatcher was noted but this changed at Varangerbotn when Ringed Plover and Dunlin could be added to the trip list. From Varangerbotn the next stop was Nesseby. During spring this is a wader hot-spot but once again only Ringed Plover and Dunlin were seen. Further out on the sandbanks a lone family of Common Shelduck and a small flock of Greylag Geese could be seen feeding. The rest of the fjord was void for birds except for a flock of Eurasian Wigeon. It wasn't till late evening that the first "Varanger" specialty was seen, a single Red-throated Pipit was seen at Saltjern. Along the shore two Bar-tailed Godwits and small numbers of Turnstone could be seen with the usual Ringed Plover and Dunlins. Other than that most of the time was spent checking the huge numbers of gulls for something special and the Common Eider flocks for either King or Steller's. An early morning start on the 20th with a walk around the culture park at Vadsø produced a small flock of Lapland Bunting, several more Red-throated Pipit, one or two Meadow Pipit and the odd Willow Warbler. From Vadsø the next stop was Vardø but not before stopping to watch White-tailed Eagle and Eurasian Golden Plover on the way. On the fjord huge rafts of sea-duck could be seen, not only Common Eiders but good numbers of Goosander and smaller flocks of Long-tailed Duck, Common Scoter, Velvet Scoter and Red-breasted Mergansers. At Vardø the first stop was the point at Hasselnes. Her one can see out to Hornøy and decide if it is worth hiring a boat out. It wasn't !! The cliffs that hold thousands of breeding seabirds from late May were empty except for Great Cormorants, Shags and the usual flocks of Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls. I halfway expected this, but I had hoped that there would still be some birds on the sea, but here too I was disappointed. Only a few Common Guillemot, Black Guillemot and Atlantic Puffin could be seen. Out at sea small flocks of Black-Legged Kittiwake whizzed past, caught on the strong wind while the few Gannets that were knocking about were in their element. However all was not lost. While stood at Hasselnes the trips only Steller's Eider flew past.

With rekindled interest a drive from Vardø to Hemmingsborg was next on the agenda. This is a spectacular stretch of coast line that has produced some interesting observations during past years. The days first of five Merlin was noted and a stop overlooking a small lake produced a female Greater Scaup with young. Checking Prestnaering bay produced a few Red and Black-throated Diver as well as a pair of Whooper Swan that flew overhead. Out at see the only skuas to be seen on this stretch of coast were recorded at this point when 3 Arctic flew by. The rest of the drive was a case of stop and start, checking the huge numbers of gulls and ducks along the way. Though at times this was tedious, it did produce a single White-billed Diver. I am sure that this bird would have been over-looked if not for stopping to check the sea-duck. The cliffs that tower up from the roadside are impressive, and even more so when two Gyr Falcon can be watched. I got the impression that it was an adult bird teaching a younger bird some of the skills it air acrobatics, it was certainly a great sight and a lot more interesting than the Common Ravens that were the usual species to soar over the edge of the cliffs. Back along the shore small flocks of Eurasian Oystercatcher and a small flock of Red Knot were the only waders to be seen while at one fresh water river a small flock of Spotted Redshank were actively feeding, some still in breeding plumage. Passerines were low in numbers except for the odd Meadow Pipit and Northern Wheatear. I was disappointed not to record Red-necked Phalarope or Bluethroat on the 20th but this was put right on the 21st.

On drawing back my curtains of my hotel room, a single Red-necked Phalarope was feeding in the harbour, a mere 20 yards away. That was the first of many that day with a total count of over 70. The day also produced a scattering of Bluethroats, most of them feeding amongst the sea-weed. Most of the birding up to now had been along the coast, time to head inland and check the vast areas of bog and willow scrub. Stopping the car Willow Grouse could be heard calling as well as Shore Lark and Lapland Bunting. A small lake produced a pair of Red-throated Diver and a single Dunlin flew up somewhat alarmed. Driving to the next area was soon cut short when a Rough-legged Buzzard was seen, and soon joined by another one. Both flew alongside the road before flying out of sight. Turning off the main road onto a gravel path heading inland again soon produced a small flock of Eurasian Golden Plover and a few Ruff by the side of the road and 9 Whooper Swans on a large lake. Other than that it was mostly the same species with 20+ Meadow Pipit, 4 Bluethroat, a single Sedge Warbler and a few more Lapland Buntings.

It was time to say goodbye to the Varanger peninsula and head for the other prime birding area of the region, the Pasvik Valley. But would it be prime in August? Here I have to say no. Compared with spring, the autumn was a disappointment. Once again I didn't know what to expect but I had hoped for flocks of migrating passerines and good numbers of waterfowl. Birding was hard to say the least with mile after mile of quiet woodlands and empty lakes. One or two Red and Black-throated Diver were seen with one pair of Black-throated with two fledgling young. Only two small flocks of Greylag Geese were recorded, one of which held two Bean Geese. Duck numbers were in general low with a flock of Eurasian Wigeon, 4 Common Teal, a few Mallard, small flocks of Tufted Duck, 12 Common Goldeneye, a single Smew and one or two Goosander.
One nice surprise was a flock of Common Crane flying towards Skrotnes, a species that was seen or heard on several occasions while in the area. Around Svanhovd Meadow Pipit and White Wagtail were noted in small numbers while only three Yellow Wagtail were seen. Checking an area of rough pasture produced a cracking Arctic Redpoll and 3 Reed Bunting. Other than that the only other species worth noting in the Svanvik area was the trips first Siberian Jay and Great Grey Shrike. The remaining days were spent searching for some of the Pasvik Valley specialities like Pine Grosbeak. This species unfortunately remained elusive but while looking for it several Siberian Jay were seen, small numbers of Willow Warbler, a few Pied Flycatcher and a Spotted Flycatcher. Several Siberian Tit were also recorded as well as a flock of 30+ Bohemian Waxwing. The highlight of the Pasvik valley however was an Arctic Warbler, while on the very last day 2 Two-barred Crossbills were seen. That is about it give one or two of the common species that I have not mentioned. One thing that is for sure, if you are ever told that mosquitoes are not a problem at Pasvik so late in the season don't you believe them! In a few days I leave for the bird of prey migration at Falsterbo in southern Sweden, something I am really looking forward to.